What could be more quintessentially French than baguettes and brie and escargot?! Well, maybe creme brule, but three out of four isn’t too bad and that’s exactly what we enjoyed on our third day of eating our way through Paris.
On our last full day in France, we went on an absolutely lovely and amazing excursion to Giverny where we explored Monet’s home and gardens and the sweetest little town we’ve ever seen. It also was where we had a delicious lunch and where one of Matt’s desires was met. Before heading to France, I asked Matt what he hoped to do and see. He was pretty simple and said, “I’d like to go to the Louvre, see the Eiffel Tower, eat in a typical French bistro, and try some good French wine. Oh, and have a true French baguette with some delicious cheese.” Well, day one accomplished the Louvre and Eiffel Tower. Day two, with Kate’s help, accomplished the French bistro and French wine. And, little did we know when we set out for Giverny, but day three was going to take care of the baguette and cheese.
This little outdoor cafe with seating for only about twelve is just up the hill from Monet’s home and gardens. Giverny, small as it is, is teeming with tourists practically all year – and so is this cafe! We were so lucky to arrive just in time to grab the last cafe table tucked away in the corner with a great view of the street. I read over the menu and my heart did a little dance because I knew Matt was going to get what he so wanted: a half baguette FILLED with camembert cheese. I decided on the three cheese panini, which was good (especially when I got to the brie part), but was no where near as delicious as Matt’s camembert baguette. This lunch taught me a very important lesson: Never be afraid to order the same thing. I think in my heart of hearts I wanted the baguette with camembert, too, but I thought I was being clever by ordering the second best thing on the menu in order to sample two things. Again, while my panini was tasty, it just didn’t compare to the baguette! How about those cute little bags they were served in? Though we loved our Giverny lunch, we had no idea what delicacies were awaiting us when arrived back in Paris.
That’s right, a Laduree tea party was in order! When we arrived back in Paris from our Giverny excursion, we had a short two hour window of time to fill before heading on our evening excursion to Montmarte. In case you’re wondering what to do if you have two hours to kill in Paris, go to the Laduree on the Champs!
When we arrived, there was a very long line that was even out the door. I was getting very nervous about the time. Matt would joke later that the theme of our trip was me being nervous (I get very nervous when it comes to departure times). We soon realized that the line we were standing in was just for the bakery case (no doubt for macarons specifically) and there was no one waiting to be seated.
We were first taken to a table for two by a window in the downstairs area. This simply would not do. I excused myself to the upstairs bathroom in order to check out the upstairs seating. I was happy to find two open tables upstairs so I returned to the hostess and asked her if we could move upstairs. She didn’t mind at all and led us to a lovely table right in front of a fireplace in the library room. The atmosphere does make all the difference in the world! In the downstairs area, there were countless tables. In our library room? Only four!
Matt had his heart set on a glass of champagne and chose the Laduree Rose rather quickly. I spent a few minutes trying to choose between the rose, violet, or Laduree blend of tea before choosing the house blend. And then came the pastry picking! The mini macarons were a given and we chose four to share: rose (my favorite), vanilla (Matt’s favorite), orange blossom (a close second for us both), and caramel with salt (which was good, but we would definitely choose coconut next time). Our individual pastries were a bit more difficult to decide upon. I ended up selecting a rose cream and raspberry puff pastry (very similar to the St. Honore that I always get at the location in Harrod’s) and Matt picked a passionfruit and raspberry tart (that was amazing!).
We paid our bill, used the extremely swanky bathrooms, and then left Laduree just in time for a light drizzle. It was lovely to walk huddled underneath one umbrella, Matt’s arm around my waist, strolling down the Champs. We made it back to our bus promptly at 5:30 and then were whisked away to the Montmarte district of Paris.
Montmarte is a famous part of Paris, set on a hill with a lovely view of the city below. I know it because it’s where Amelie worked, in a little cafe frequented by a bunch of eccentrics. The guide book we took with us from the library AND our amazing tour guide, Mansel, both warned us about the many restaurants in the village square that loved nothing more than to rip tourists off. So, we set off on the task of finding somewhere decent to eat, and oh, were we lucky?
After wandering by a strolling accordionist playing “La Vie en Rose,” we arrived in the village square, the artists’ hub. There were so many restaurants, so many choices, and only two hours – so, the pressure was on to make up our minds quickly. One thing I love about Paris is how 99% of cafes and restaurants post their menus outside so that you can look at the menu before you decide to ask for a table. This would work more to our advantage if we spoke French as some of the menus are only in French, but since we don’t speak French, the posted menus serve as a good weeding tool. If a menu is only in French, we pass. We finally came upon La Cremaillere and all its English description glory! Another thing about Parisian restaurants is their prix fixe menu: a set price which often includes a starter, main, and dessert. My eye was immediately drawn to La Cremaillere’s Degas menu (aptly named for an artist since Montmarte is known for its artists, too) at €26. I was pleased to see escargot as a starter option and while I was disappointed that creme brule was not listed as a dessert option, I did spy a delicious salmon main. After little discussion, we decided to ask for a table.
We had such a friendly waiter. Matt kept an eye on him and felt like our waiter was friendliest to us! The two phrases of French I know must’ve charmed him. Since the escargot was one of the deciding factors in our restaurant choice, my starter was a no-brainer. Never having tried escargot before, Matt was a bit hesitant to order it as well and opted for the Italian salad instead. I loved the little dish the escargot was served in. Matt and I each had three and to his delight, he loved them! His Italian salad was equally delicious and he very generously shared his fresh parmesan and mozzarella with me.
Oh, yeah! I almost forgot to mention our drinks! Since it was our farewell to Paris dinner, we thought it fitting to celebrate with a bit of wine for him and a practically-all-fruit-juice drink for me. (I really don’t like the smell or taste of anything alcoholic, so in order for me to be able to drink more than a sip, the drink mustn’t resemble alcohol at all. The Tropical fit the bill: coconut rum with lots of banana and orange juice!) We also got a bottomless basket of French baguette pieces which was a big hit with Matt!
Our main dishes were absolutely delicious and in fact, perfect (even though I had misread the menu and expected salmon and scallops instead of the salmon and scalloped potatoes). When our meals were served, the couple next to us kept looking at my dish. A few minutes later, the man sitting next to Matt motioned for their waiter, mumbled something, and pointed at my plate. When their food was served, guess what the woman sitting next to me had? That’s right, the same thing as me! Matt’s lamb was super tender and he (and me, too) loved it. The mashed potatoes weren’t anywhere near as good as the previous night’s, but they were still pretty amazing.
Now, the food and drink weren’t the only amazing things La Cremaillere had to offer. It had atmosphere and location as well! The restaurant had three parts to it: the spacious inside seating complete with bar and live music, an outside garden terrace that they tried to sell us on by describing it as very romantic, and the outside cafe right in the middle of the square with a great view of all the action and that’s where we asked to sit. Artists and their easels were set up all around the square and we could actually see a few artists sketching the portraits of fellow tourists. It takes about 20 minutes to sit for a portrait and if Matt and I ever find ourselves back in Paris and in Montmarte, we will have our portrait drawn. We’ll probably also choose to dine at La Cremaillere.
I haven’t mentioned the dessert yet! Our third and final course was just as spectacular as the first two. I didn’t know what I was in for when I picked the Chocolate and Pear Charlotte but it seemed the best of the options. Oh, wasn’t I in for a treat?! It was so refreshing and delicious. It was a chocolate-mousse-and-pears with sponge-cake-and-cream-and-chocolate-sauce thing. By the time dessert was served, I was already so full, but I was not going to let a bite go to waste! Matt was very full, too, and decided it was a good thing he went with the lightest dessert among the selections: fresh pineapple slices with a scoop of raspberry sorbet and some raspberry sauce.
It was a fabulous farewell to France full of good eats! And now I leave you with a little video of our tea party in Laduree and our dinner in Montmarte.


Kate (who recapped our dinner
Angelina has an absolutely beautiful interior. The restaurant is nestled in between a swanky hotel and upscale clothing stores, a fancy bookstore – and a few tacky-ish souvenir stores. As we walked in around 11:30 am on our first full day, the reality of being in Paris with my sweet Clark Kent began to sink in. We were really here! I was getting to show him something that I love about this city, Angelina hot chocolate. (As silly as it sounds, this hot chocolate is important to me. Not only is it super delicious, it also just represents something that I experienced before CK and something that I wanted him to experience with me.)
We happened up on THE street, home of Linda’s and my favorite gyro dealer, quite by accident. I giggled and bubbled with excitement once again and made CK pose for a picture! (How funny that we come to Paris to have dinner in the Latin Quarter at a Greek restaurant run by Indians/Pakistanis – and, the section is called the Latin Quarter because it is where the Sorbonne was founded and everyone used to speak Latin there.) I think that the meat in these famous gyros tends to be shaved lamb and beef, but maybe it’s pork? I’m not sure, but it’s absolutely delicious and it’s hanging in the window! I love it! I think CK loved it just as much! 
Matt flew to Florida on a Wednesday and Linda and I rode the train to London. The day was dubbed my Unbirthday. Since Linda won’t be here for my thirtieth, she wanted to celebrate with me now – and, I certainly didn’t object! It meant three mother/daughter tea parties in London town! I was totally on board!
There were lots of tea parties and sweeties to eat outside of London (though the top right and middle left were our cakes from The Orangery tea party). Whilst in London, Linda and I got some wonderful take away treats: twelve macarons from Laduree and a pastry from La Patisserie Valerie, a French bakery Linda discovered on the internet. This meant we had two delicious tea parties the next day – at breakfast and at afternoon tea time (3:30).
Oh, how I love food! Linda’s visit was most certainly accompanied by some good eating!
We walked into town today to take care of business before Linda’s arrival in less than a month!! We first returned some library books and then headed to the train station hoping that our friend Zack would help us sort out all the train tickets we’ll need for her visit. Zack wasn’t there, but we made a new friend, Karl. With Karl’s help, we purchased a railcard! (in my name!) and all the tickets for trips to the airport, Winchester, London, and Henley-on-Thames for WAY less than I could have done through the internet. It is a puzzle to me why going to the train station gets you cheaper tickets.


